Visit Centre Cultural La Model: A prison museum revealing a darker side of Barcelona's history

newdaytoexplore
Aug 29, 2024
3 min read

Photo: New Day to Explore

If you’re looking for a weekend plan that’s out of the ordinary, why not explore a different side of Barcelona’s history with a visit to one of its former prisons? Located in the L’Esquerra de l’Eixample district just by the Entença metro station stands Centre Cultural La Model, a 20th-century prison-turned-museum, which offers a fascinating insight into the city’s turbulent past. Walk through the hallways and witness the cells that once held many of Barcelona’s prisoners, including political dissidents during the Franco regime. Learn more about the structure’s architecture and some of the darker events that took place behind its walls.

The History of La Model

Inception and Early Years

La Model opened its doors in 1904, following years of construction that began in 1887, just before the Universal Exposition. Designed by architects Salvador Vinyals i Sabaté and Josep Domènech i Estapà, the prison was originally envisioned as a model of functional excellence. The facility was isolated at its inception, surrounded by undeveloped land, far removed from the bustling city that would later grow around it. The prison's design, based on the panopticon model proposed by Jeremy Bentham, allowed for comprehensive surveillance from a central point, with six galleries radiating like spokes from a hub. This layout was intended to impose discipline and reform, a concept later explored by Michel Foucault.

A Shift in Conditions

Initially, La Model offered relatively favourable conditions compared to other prisons of the era. With a capacity for around 850 inmates, each cell measured 9 square meters, and inmates were provided with adequate meals and health services, including vaccination campaigns. However, as Barcelona expanded and resources dwindled, overcrowding became a significant issue. The prison’s population grew more diverse, and the facility’s reputation began to change.

Repression and Political Prisoners

As Spain's political and social landscape became increasingly volatile, La Model became a symbol of state repression. Throughout the dictatorships of Primo de Rivera and Franco, the prison was used to detain political dissidents. Arrests were often arbitrary, carried out under vague police orders, and the infamous "ley de fugas" (escapee law) led to the execution of prisoners under the pretence of escape attempts. By the late 1930s, La Model had become synonymous with the darker aspects of Spanish state repression.

When Franco’s forces entered Barcelona in January 1939, La Model was nearly empty but quickly filled as the city came under military occupation. By the end of that year, the prison housed over 12,000 prisoners under appalling conditions. Diseases were rampant, and political executions were common, with over 1,600 people executed during this period. The Franco regime attempted to alleviate overcrowding by implementing a labour system, where prisoners could reduce their sentences through work.

Post-War to Modern Era

International pressure in the 1950s forced the Franco regime to reduce its most severe forms of repression, resulting in a decrease in the prison population. However, political prisoners continued to be a significant presence within La Model. Among them was Helios Gómez, a prominent artist, and anarchist who was imprisoned multiple times. Gómez’s most famous contribution to the prison’s history is the "Gypsy Chapel," a mural he painted at the request of the prison’s priest. The mural, which depicted the Virgin of Mercy surrounded by chained men, was covered over in 1998 but remains a poignant reminder of the prison’s history.

Late Franco Era

By the 1970s, La Model had become a mix of political prisoners and common criminals. This period saw the rise of COPEL (the Prisoners' Struggle Cooperative), a movement that sought amnesty for common prisoners similar to that granted to political prisoners. Although their efforts were unsuccessful, this era was marked by prison riots and the devastating impact of heroin on the inmate population.

La Model Today

Closure and Legacy

La Model continued to function as a prison until its closure on June 8, 2017, after 113 years of operation. Today, the site serves as a memorial space, open to the public for both guided and unguided visits. As you explore the prison, you’ll encounter spaces that have been preserved to reflect the various eras of its history. The forthcoming partial demolition of the prison will make way for green spaces and community facilities, transforming this historic site into a place of reflection and renewal.

Visiting La Model Prison Museum

Getting to La Model prison is easy as it’s well-connected by metro with the L5 and L3 lines, buses, and bicing stations all within close walking distance.

La Model is open to the public: